Out Around the Barn

It is definitly that time of year, mud everywhere.  It is a nuisance to walk outside to the car or to the mailbox and have your feet covered in mud.  It gets all over your car and it ruins your good shoes.  But what can you do, not much. 

Out around the barn the mud is much worse and it can become a problem.  If you feed outside the barn the mud will just continue to get more messy and harder to get around in.  It is hard on the cattle and hard on you.  Then when it freezes the ground is so uneven that it is difficult to walk on. 

So, what do we do?  I don’t know about everyone else but, the one thing we do is move our feeders around every few weeks to keep the mud from becoming a problem.  If it does become an issue, there are times when we had to just haul in more rock.  There are some areas around here that I know are 10 inches or more deep with rock that has been built up over the years. 

The other way is to feed on concrete but that can also get messy and pretty quick.  Then you just have to clean, clean and clean.  And if not careful, it can get pretty slick.  I know that when it does get in that condition it can be hazardous.  The concrete can be as slick as glass and a broken leg can happen pretty easily.

Another thing we do is drag the ground area around the feeders.  When the ground is still muddy yet a little frozen, we pull the drag behind the tractor and even out the ground.  Now, I don’t do this myself, but  Al does on a pretty regular basis.  He usually does this at the same time he puts out hay for the cattle and horses. 

We do the same procedure around the hay feeders.  They are easy enough to pick up with the tractor and move every time we put out a new bale.  This keeps the area from becoming too much of a mess and the grass will grow back come Spring. 

Everyone does things differently but this just might give you another idea.  I do know that a drag is a must on the farm and an important part of our farm equipment.  We have ours made from 5 old tires, halved and attached together in a triangular shape with a chain that hooks to the tractors hitch.  It does a great job.

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We are a farm family and enjoy our animals and farm life.  So talking about the farm and all that it requires is a passion of ours.  From equine supplements to chicken coupes, we will discuss just about anything.  Comments welcome.

If you have animals you will have to have some type of livestock feeders to feed them.  Now, I do not mean cats and dogs, I’m talking cattle, horses, goats, sheep, pigs and such.  Depending on the animal or animals you have will tell you what size you will need.

Goats, sheep and pigs usually need a low feeder where the trough is low to the ground or sits directly on the ground.  This makes it easy for them to reach.  Horses and cattle, unless  babies, can be higher.  High enough so that they do not have to eat off the ground and low enough that they can easily reach without struggling to reach their feed. 

Once you have determined the size, how high and how many will be eating from this one feeder, you will need to purchase supplies.  That will include lumber, treated or non-treated, some 2×4’s and 2×6’s, strong sturdy posts and some screws.  How much of these will depend on the size of the feeder you want to build.  Then you get your measuring tape, saw, hammer, if using nails, drill and begin to build.  I am certain that if you do not have an idea of how to do this you can find instructions on the internet or contact your local farm bureau.   It will take some time but in the end well worth it.

On the other hand, you can purchase livestock feeders at any online or storefront farm supply company.  There are several to choose from, all shapes and sizes.  If you are not one to build things or work with your hands, then this may be the way to go.  Check out our website by clicking on livestock feeders and look around.  Click out our affiliate “Barn World” and you will also find some feeders and ideas there.

You would think that a horse would not shy away from water simply because they are outside animals and it seems natural that a horse would go through water just fine.  Most of the time that is the case but, there are some horses that have a difficult time.

I had one such horse, she was a Paint mare named Dallas.  She was 8 yrs. old and approximately 15 hands high.  She was beautiful and I was so happy when I got her that I never dreamed we would have so many problems.  She was my dream horse, always wanted a Paint and now I had Dallas.

When I first started working with her we had some issues.  I figured it was me because I had been away from horses for a while and I was tense.  So I did a lot of ground work.  I, then, rode her in the round pen and we got along well.  Oh, we had several instances where she seemed to forget everything we worked on and I would have to start over but, I thought I was making progress.  The day came when we needed to check cattle so I went  into the tack room and got my saddle off the saddle rack and saddled Dallas and Allen saddled Bubby and we went in search of our herd.  She seemed okay with everything until we came to the creek.  She stopped then and there and would not budge.  I finally was able to get her to walk along side the creek but could not get her feet in  the water.  I did this for about 20 minutes and finally we touched water.  That was all it took, she bolted and threw me, then ran for the barn.  I was lucky that day being in a wooded area and trees all around.  Too close for comfort when I landed within inches of a tree.

I had read several articles, been to demonstrations and watched horsemanship shows on television telling us how to remedy this problem.  The advice was:

• keep calm
• walk the horse along the edge of the water
• go back and forth several times
• each time getting closer to the water
• allow the horse to step in a little at a time
• Do Not Rush!!!!!
• if this does not accomplish the task, dismount and walk with the horse
• do the same as mentioned above
• continue this pattern until the horse will venture in and get their feet wet
• you don’t have to be in deep water to accomplish the task at hand
• after getting feet wet, walk out and do it again
• repeat several times before mounting
• once mounted, repeat the steps again before continuing your ride

This should help your horse the next time.  You may need to work on this several different times before your horse is comfortable crossing water.  Even though it may seem natural, horses have fears just like us and they have to be addressed accordingly. 

I did not have the chance to try to get Dallas to cross water again.  She was at the barn when I returned and would not even allow me on her.  My partner tried to ride her and calm her down but, she did her best to try to dismount him, she did not get her way there.  I decided after she had thrown me several more times that she was not the right horse for me, so I decided to find me something with a calm disposition and broke to ride. 

You cannot always tell by looking or even riding if a horse will shy away from something or has a fear of something until you are faced with it together.  Always be cautious when riding a new horse, you both will learn a great deal from each other.

Many horses get their share of daily vitamins from fresh grass and hay. In some cases, however, horse owners are unable to provide their horse with high-quality hay. At this point, it becomes necessary to supplement a horse’s diet with the vitamins they require to remain healthy. Race horses and colts need vitamins in addition to a healthy diet of grains and forage.

Before feeding equine vitamins to your animal, take a moment to consider an important question: What sort of lifestyle does your horse lead? If he or she experiences a lot of stress from carrying heavy loads, keep an ample supply of vitamin C at the ready. If, on the other hand, your horse experiences a cracked hoof, you’ll want to infuse his or her diet with Vitamin H. Most vitamins should be synthesized in a horse’s everyday diet, but some instances call for more.