Out Around the Barn

What causes a bull or a cow to go blind?  It is not always caused by an injury; it can be caused by allergies or particles in the air that irritate and by irritation of flies and insects.  If not treated quickly can cause blindness. 

I am talking about a form of Pink – eye, an acute contagious conjunctivitis marked by redness of the eyeball.  The symptoms are redness and swelling of the eye and some can even get ulcerated spots on their eyes.  This actually causes temporary blindness.  They will run into fences and walk in circles due to confusion.  They can get lost from the herd and if cornered can become dangerous due to lack of sight and fear of the unknown.

This particular form must be treated medically by an antibiotic spray (that you can purchase from you local veterinary) given with an antibiotic injection.  We use LA – 300 Antibiotic (also purchased from vet), this is one livestock medicinal item we keep on hand in our medical and farm supplies.  Both of these, the spray and the injection, given together will help your animal heal and recover quickly with less risk of total blindness.  Most will recover with 100% of their vision restored but, there may be some that will not fully regain their eyesight back at 100%.  Depending on how long they had the infection and how severe the infection will determine what damage was caused.

It is most imp0rtant to treat your cattle and livestock as soon as you notice any signs of irritation or redness of the eyes.  It does happen to the best of us; we work the farm; planting fields, away from the livestock , maybe at a second j0b and do not notice the changes right away.  They, also, do not just creep up overnight either, so to speak, so it is no wonder that it can get away from us, at any given time.  We just have to do the best we can and as soon as we notice a problem; we tackle it head on and give it our full attention and care.

There is not one single thing that can prevent this particular infection from occuring in your livestock but as a preventative measure, keep your pastures cut low enough during the growing season so that your livestock are not fighting the tops of the grasses and weeds to feed on the grass available to them.  As a preference, we try to keep ours cut no shorter than ankle length when we mow the pastures.  This allows the grass to contiunue its growth and kills most of the weeds or, at least, causes them to grow at a slower pace allowing the cattle enough grass to eat during the spring, summer and fall seasons.

Nothing hurts more than the heartbreak of losing someone or something you love.  The something I am referring to is the loss of a couple of kids, goats, that contracted Coccidiosis.  Being a beginner in the raising and handling of goats; it was a shock to me when my kids started getting sick.  I have had my herd for over 2 years and this had not been an issue for me so I was at my wits end. 

I read up on the symptoms they were showing and most of it pointed in the direction that I needed to de-worm them.  I hadn’t considered that they would need that at such a young age but, then again, I was totally at a loss.  So, checking with the vet, I got what I needed and de-wormed the whole herd of 15, making sure to disperse the correct dosage per body weight, per animal.  They seemed to improve some but in two weeks,  I knew it had to be done once more.  The time came and I done another round.  A couple of days later, one of my kid nannies became weak and I had to remove her from the herd and give IV solution for dehydration.  She did not make it.  I was devastated!  I did not understand what was happening.

I called the vet again and explained the weakness and dehydaration symptoms and lack of appetite and told him my smallest was down and the others were showing similar signs.  After due consideration, he prescribed a Corid Drench for 5 days and a liquid to add to their drinking water for the older ones.  Coccidiosis, which can be fatal if not treated in time, is an infectious disease caused by protozoan parasites that attack the epithelial tissue of animals and my little ones had it.  My littlest was not strong enough to withstand the medication, another loss.   

I began working with them on a schedule and drenching them once daily.  Cleaned out their feeders and  re-strawed their barn.  They would be confined for 5 -10 days and needed a clean dry place to get over this.  After a couple of days, their appetites increased, the diarrhea cleared and they were playing again.  They even began to look healthier.

I was relieved but we were not out of the woods yet.  They were not 100% and Doc said as a preventive and precautionary measure, I should change their feed to a medicated one that controls just this issue.  So I did.

I now feed Goat Power feed with medication for Coccidiosis mixed in.  It has given me great results and the goats love the taste.  They look forward to that everyday.  From this experience, I have learned to keep Doc’s number close at hand and when I see something that is not quite as it should be to question it, even if it amounts to nothing in the long run.  Sometime it just may save a life.

Yahoo!  Baby Chicks are soon to arrive.  The Ladies have been on their nests for 21 days and within the next week we should have little ones.  I have four hens sitting and boy, can they get cranky.  Even when you reach in the nest next to them to gather eggs, they will try to peck at you, cluck like they want to attack and can be extremely mean to the other hens.

We recently built a new chicken coup and put up new nests for all our hens.  I have recently learned that to have happy chickens it is good to have all your daily needs close by.  I keep their feed in a barrel right inside the coup, they have free range to water and have plenty of room to  peck, search and roost.  This keeps them happy and healthy.

My chickens have their own waterers, feeders and nests to complete their home.  They roost off the ground to keep away from country critters.  They are eager to see me when I come to gather the eggs, I know this by them all standing at the coup door.  They just get excited.  By the time we are done they have all calmed down and are ready for a quiet night.

Their daily farm supplies are easy to keep on hand, their food, water, straw for bedding and a bucket or basket to gather the eggs in. One tip I would like to pass on;  if you are like me and spoil your animals, I have found that chickens really like cat food and it is good for them, especially if you have layers.  I give them a treat about once a month by just scattering some on the ground and letting them at it.   I enjoy my chickens and in a few days will have approx. 70 little ones added to my flock.

There is always stress on your animals when you wean the little ones from their mamas.  It does not matter the type or breed, there will be crying from both the mamas and babies.  Besides all the noise the animals will want to get back together and they will look for any opening to do just that. 

For at least three to four days they will walk the fences, try to jump the fences and try to climb through or crawl under any opening just to get back together.  We always wean in the sign of the moon and have mostly good results but, there are always those few that just cannot get with the program.

So, what do you do when they get back together and you have to begin the process all over again?  Really, I do not know what the best plan is.  I take it one day at a time and go with the flow.  Try as I might, I fill and close any openings that I find, where I think they are getting through and try again.  Does it work?  Sometimes but, not always. 

I weaned my kids, baby goats, 2 weeks ago and have only had them all get out one day but Jillie has gotten out 12 out of the 14 days they have been weaned.  It never fails, I go out to feed and she is back with Miss Dolly, her mama.  She is such a pet, I spoil them awful, that it is nothing to get her back in with the others but keeping her in is a problem.  It is hard not to think it is funny or cute but, she needs to stay in her pen. 

Reinforcing the fencing is the best plan to keep them contained and having fencing supplies on hand is helpful.  There are those moments, and I have a lot of them, that you just have to rig something up until you have the time when you can complete the job.  Fencing wire, wire cutters, tools and the rest of fencing supplies are necessary livestock equipment to have on the farm and handy at a moments notice.

I have a question for you.  Is it necessary for your pets, dogs inparticular, to be obiedent.  In my opinion, yes.  I love my animals and they jump and play with me and I don’t mind at all but, when it comes to visitors on our farm it can be a nuisance for them and myself.

We have two Border Collies, work in progress, training on the farm.  We are always giving them commands when working the livestock and they do pretty well, not perfect but ok.  My biggest chore is my little “FAT” dog, Bella.  She is a Jack Russell and is 10 lbs. overweight and very hyper.  She does several tricks but still has not got the technique of leaving others alone when they stop by.  She is very much a “mamas girl” and doesn’t want anyone to mess with her. She tends to just be somewhat of a pest and in the way.   

One of the techniques that I use to train her is when she comes toward you, you know she is going to jump on you, I take a step towards her to throw her off balance and say “No” or “Off”.  This confuses her just enough to to balk and she links that to jumping and realizing that when I step forward she is to stop.  It does take work and is no easy task to achieve.  In time, I think she will get the hang of it.  Another way is that when she does jump, lightly but forcefully step on her hind paw and she will hopefully learn that she is not to jump.

There are rules, a much needed farm necessity, everywhere and we have rules for our animals as well.  It is up to us to teach them.

The farm house is something that is rarely mentioned as part of a farm.  When we talk of farm equipment or supplies we usually are speaking of the barn and things outside of the house.  In reality, the farm house is a major part of the farm.   It is where we sleep, eat and relax after long hours working our farm and managing our livestock.  In many houses, it is where we have our business/farm office.  This is where we work the numbers so that all things fall into place.

If your house is like mine, very much lived in, it may not always be as clean as it should be, or is expected to be.  But, I have a few tips on how to make the cleaning a little easier and faster so that most of my time can be spent doing what matters most.

• slit a tennis ball, place on a handle and use to remove scuff marks on tile floors before cleaning
• do a quick wipe down in the bathrooms daily to keep them fresh
• always have dishes clean before going to bed
• prepare coffee pot before bed
• do a quick sweep of kitchen floor after last meal of day

These are just a few little tips that I have found useful.  It makes the big day, once a week or every other week. a little easier and not so overwhelming.

Having the Farm House in some kind of order, helps keep the farm running smooth.

It is soon to be garden season and we will be getting out our tools to begin our Spring cleanup and garden preparation. 

It is never good to put tools away dirty.  They can rust and that shortens their life span.  One way that I have always cleaned my tools is to wash them and spray a little bit of cooking spray, a cheap farm supply, on them before  I store them for the winter.  This will keep them from rusting and will be ready to use come Spring. 

I, also, found a way to remove rust and that is to brew a pot of black tea, remove dirt from tool, submerge in the liquid and let set for couple of hours.  Be sure not to submerge wooden handle.  The tea’s tannic acid will remove the rust.  Rinse and dry before use.  If your tools are stored correctly then when Spring comes you can shorten your time by using them right away and not having to clean then before using.

Happy Gardening!

It’s official, Spring is here.  It is calving season at our farm.  It actually started the first of March and we now have 9 little ones on the ground.  It seems that it always takes longer when your are anticipating  them. 

Before the season starts, we make sure our tack and livestock supplies are ready at hand.  We never know when we have to saddle a horse and go check the herd.  Our cows make a trip to the house  every other day or so.  It is then when we start to see the little ones up close and get a head count of just how many we have.  If any of our cows don’t come up or we haven’t seen them within 5 days, we saddle a horse and ride. 

We have to keep our gear in good condition so that we can use it in a moments notice.  For our saddles, we use saddle racks to store them when not in use.  This helps keep there shape and off the floor.  Same as with our ropes and bridles, they have their own assigned place in the tack room for each animal.  Keeping the leather soft with oil is  a great way to maintain your tack.  This is good for you and also for your animal. 

Not keeping your tack in good condition could cause problems not only for you financially, due to having to replace them but, also for your horse to keep them from getting sores  from gear that just don’t set right on their back or in their mouth.

After retiring from corporate life, my wife and I decided to move to the Midwest to be closer to our immediate relations. In order to stay busy and active, we purchased a farm on a small plot of land. We don’t plan to turn a profit from the property, hopefully just produce enough vegetables and milk so that we don’t have to buy them from the store.

When first moved in, the livestock supply left much to be desired. After doing some searching online, we found a store that carried everything from feed to livestock sorting paddles. Once we received the supplies, we quickly worked to develop a routine and get the barn, crops and animals in working order. It took some time to acclimate to the new lifestyle, but we both are enjoying the pace and atmosphere that life on the farm affords.

As far as I can remember, we have always had cats on the farm.  We were not allowed to have them inside so ours stayed out in the barn.  There was always more than one and at times we would get up to 15 to 20 at a time depending on how many litters were born.

Not until a few years ago when my mother decided to have a cat in her house, did I get to like the idea.  I have had dogs in the house and my children all have dogs in their houses, but it has only been recently that I have thought about having one of my own.  I have one now outside that I have been taming that was born in the fall and have gave serious consideration of bringing her, Raja, in and housebreaking her.

Cats are great for the farm because they help keep the rodent population under control but also make a wonderful pet.  Inside cats are great for comfort and to have the pleasure and joy of having someone to cuddle with and love. 

Either way, inside or out, cats need to have a healthy diet  and exercise.  This can be accomplished by providing activities for your cat by playing ball with them or having them take a walk with you.  You mostly hear of walking your dog, why not your cat?  The other thing is their diet, provide them with a healthy food made for them.  If not sure what your cat needs, contact your local veterinary.

Cats, in my opinion, are a part of any farm, inside or out.  The can be considered as farm equipment or supply due to their rodent reduction abilities.  They are a joy to have around and are great pets.  Just remember, if wanting to have one inside, make sure you have the time to spend with your cat.  A well loved cat is a Happy Cat.